The sun sets behind Portland’s skyline as I stand on the top deck of a ferry, returning from a delightful day on Peaks Island. This charming island, located just three miles east of downtown Portland, offers an idyllic retreat from the hustle and bustle of city life. Peaks Island is legally a part of Portland, but it feels like a world away, with its peaceful atmosphere and simple pleasures.

At the end of a long day, it’s refreshing to see children still energetic and excited about their time on Peaks. Their enthusiasm for collecting sea glass and biking around the island is infectious. Walking the four-mile loop, beach combing, and enjoying the island’s natural beauty are timeless attractions that draw visitors year-round.

Peaks Island, accessible by a 15-minute public ferry ride from Portland, remains a relatively sleepy place with a small but intimate community of year-round residents. The island accommodates thousands of summer visitors who stay in rental properties or make day trips. During the summer, the population swells from around 1,000 year-round residents to approximately 6,000.

At the turn of the 20th century, Peaks Island was known as the “Coney Island of Maine,” boasting theaters, shops, hotels, and even a small amusement park. However, after World War II, the island’s popularity waned. Today, tourism still plays a vital role in the island’s economy, but a tightly knit community of year-round residents thrives. The island is home to a library branch, a police station, an elementary school, a health center, and churches.

Upon arriving on Peaks Island, visitors are greeted by a charming collection of eateries near the ferry landing. The dilemma of choosing where to eat first is a pleasant one. Heading north on Island Avenue leads to Hannigan’s Island Market, where you can buy provisions or enjoy a freshly made sandwich. Heading south takes you to Island Lobster Company, where you can have lunch on the deck overlooking the ferry landing. The food is delicious and reasonably priced, and the view of Casco Bay is breathtaking. Across the street, if you’re in the mood for haute cuisine, check in for dinner at The Inn on Peaks… or stay for a night. This long-standing inn provides some of the most sumptuous meals on the island!

Walking around the island reveals its many hidden gems. Don’t miss the one-of-a-kind Umbrella Cover Museum. Yes, you read that right. Or visit Gem Gallery to peruse some of Portland’s hippest art. Heading south to Sandy Beach provides a chance to cool off in the refreshing waters. The beach is accessible via a wooden ramp at the end of Greenwood Street. Although the water is chilly, it’s a perfect spot for beach combing and enjoying the island’s natural beauty.

Continuing the journey southeast, a walk along Seashore Avenue reveals the stunning Gulf of Maine. Stone beaches invite amateur sculptors to create freestanding structures from the thousands of stones scattered along the shore. It’s a peaceful and meditative activity, perfect for a relaxing day on the island.

As you make your way north on Seashore Avenue, you pass prime swimming areas at Spar Cove and Elm Tree Cove. The loop around the island brings you back to Island Avenue, where you can explore more local attractions. The post office, elementary school, library, and Brad’s Bike Rental & Repair are all worth a visit. Island Bike Service rents bicycles for those who didn’t bring their own.

Before catching the ferry back to Portland, a stop at the Unruly Girls’ Peaks Cafe, located at the corner of Welch Street and Island Avenue, is a must. This store offers sweets and take-away treats.

Peaks Island offers a variety of activities for visitors:

• Walk or Bike the Island Loop: An aerial map is available on Google Maps. The route goes counterclockwise from Welch Street.
• Visit Civil War Museums: The Fifth Maine Museum and the Eighth Maine Regiment Memorial Association are open for tours during the summer.
• Enjoy the Beaches: Swim to Catnip Island or explore the stone beaches along Seashore Avenue.
• Dine at Local Eateries: Grab a bite at one of the restaurants near the ferry terminal or have a picnic with provisions from Hannigan’s Market.
• Explore Battery Steele: Find the hidden World War II artillery emplacement in the southeast of the island.
• Experience Reggae Sunday: Visit Jones Landing for Reggae Sunday, held from 1 p.m. to 5 p.m.

For the full ferry schedule, visit the Casco Bay Lines website. For a schedule of events on Peaks Island, check the community calendar here.

Peaks Island is a tranquil escape that offers a perfect blend of natural beauty, history, and community. Whether you’re biking the island loop, exploring historical sites, or simply relaxing on the beach, Peaks Island is a destination that promises a memorable experience.